Nagano Snow Monkey Park: visiting the bathing monkeys 🇯🇵

During my second trip to Japan, I decided to visit the bathing monkeys in Nagano Prefecture. It was an exceptional experience.

The best time to visit

The greatest number of monkeys can be seen in the hot springs between December and March. They use the warm water most often during winter, creating the famous scenes.

Visiting in the morning is recommended, when the monkeys are most active.

Getting there from Tokyo

There are two main routes to Jigokudani Monkey Park.

The first step is travelling from Tokyo to Nagano. The Hokuriku Shinkansen is the fastest option, taking approximately an hour and a half.

From Nagano Station, there are two possibilities:

• A bus directly to the park, taking 45 minutes and running once an hour.
• A train to Yudanaka, taking one hour, followed by a ten-minute bus journey to the park. These buses run more frequently.

The wait for a connection can be long, particularly if the services do not line up well. Suica could not be used on the local buses or trains either. The direct bus to the park accepted card payments, but only with Visa; Mastercard did not work.

The path to the park

A forest path approximately 2.5 kilometres long leads from the bus stop to the park. The walk takes around 45 minutes.

There was still plenty of snow on the path in March, even though Tokyo was already warm. The surface was icy, and walking without suitable footwear was not ideal.

Winter boots and jackets can be rented near the entrance.

Monkeys and hot springs

The first Japanese macaques, or Macaca fuscata, appear near the hot-spring hotel before you even enter the park. They pay little attention to people, although plastic bags attract their interest.

There are around 200 monkeys in the park itself. The thermal pool where they bathe is 45°C in winter and 30°C in summer.

Visiting Jigokudani Monkey Park is a unique experience, especially in winter. Getting there requires careful timing, but seeing the monkeys in the hot springs makes it worthwhile.

Returning to Tokyo

Before leaving, it is worth stopping for soba noodles. They are a local speciality and are prepared very well in Nagano.

When returning in the evening, expect the Shinkansen to be crowded. Many passengers are people in suits travelling back to Tokyo from business trips.

Reserved seats tend to sell out. I could not buy one, so I had to queue for an unreserved carriage. Fortunately, I eventually found a seat.